Collector Guide

Rolex only uses IF (Internally Flawless) to VVS (Very Very Slightly Included) clarity and Top Wesselton (colorless or near colorless) diamonds. Each diamond is individually selected and hand-set by Rolex’s in-house gemologists and gem-setters. This level of scrutiny limits supply.

Even though Rolex produces a large number of watches annually, models with factory-set diamonds (especially on the dial or bezel) represent a very small fraction of their output. Rolex doesn’t mass-produce these variants—they’re made in limited numbers.

Rolex does not offer customization services to customers. That means diamond dials must be ordered through authorized configurations, and Rolex will not retrofit diamonds into a standard dial. This makes factory diamond dials inherently scarce.

If you're a fan of vintage-inspired dive watches with modern performance—and an eye for value—the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Blue Dial (Ref. 79030B) is likely already on your radar. But finding a New Old Stock (NOS) version? That’s the holy grail. Let’s talk about why this model is not just a watch, but an investment in timeless design and horological pedigree.

A Tribute to 1958, Reinvented for Today

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight series pays homage to Tudor’s original 1958 dive watch—the legendary ref. 7924 “Big Crown.” With its 39mm case, the Fifty-Eight channels that vintage spirit perfectly, wearing compact and comfortably on virtually any wrist. The 79030B takes this heritage and adds a contemporary twist: a striking navy blue dial and bezel, perfectly matched with crisp white indices and hands.

Whether you’re into the nautical vibe or simply looking for something more versatile than the standard black version, the blue 58 nails it.

Why the 79030B is Special

• 39mm Stainless Steel Case – Perfect for daily wear, smaller wrists, or anyone who appreciates vintage sizing.

• Blue Aluminum Bezel Insert – Classic warmth without the flashiness of ceramic.

• COSC-Certified MT5402 Movement – In-house automatic calibre with a 70-hour power reserve. Weekend-proof and ultra-reliable.

• Domed Sapphire Crystal – Subtly vintage, yet scratch-resistant and crystal clear.

• 200m Water Resistance – More than enough for diving, swimming, or just looking good poolside.

• Rivet-Style Bracelet or Soft Fabric Strap Options – Depending on your style, both complete the look beautifully.

Why NOS (New Old Stock) Matters

This isn't just a 79030B. This is NOS—unworn, untouched, and in pristine condition with factory stickers, box, and papers. That means collectibility and investment potential. Tudor’s modern classics have been creeping up in value, and NOS examples are becoming increasingly scarce. Once they're gone, they're gone.

If you’re a serious collector or just someone who values condition and originality, an NOS 79030B is the ultimate find.

Who is This Watch For?

• The collector looking for a pristine, untouched example of a modern classic.

• The enthusiast wanting a daily wearer that honors the past without compromising on modern specs.

• The investor eyeing timepieces with increasing long-term value.

• Anyone who just loves blue and appreciates a watch that can go from boardroom to beach without missing a beat.

A "MOP dial watch" refers to a timepiece featuring a dial made from Mother of Pearl (MOP), the iridescent inner layer of mollusk shells, particularly those from the Pinctada family of pearl oysters. This natural material is prized for its shimmering, multicolored appearance, which gives each watch a unique and luxurious aesthetic.

Mother of Pearl,is a delicate and brittle material that requires skilled craftsmanship to shape and incorporate into watch dials. The process involves sourcing suitable shells, pounding them into thin sheets (approximately 0.2mm to 0.5mm thick), cutting them into the desired dial shapes, and then finishing them with engraving, patterning, painting, varnishing, or lacquering. This meticulous process can take between four to six weeks to complete.

GMT—one of the most iconic and versatile tool watches out there. Whether you're a globetrotter, a collector, or just into timeless design, the GMT line has something for everyone. Here's a breakdown to help you get oriented.

The Rolex GMT-Master was originally developed in the 1950s for Pan Am pilots to track multiple time zones during transcontinental flights. It’s now evolved into the GMT-Master II, one of Rolex’s most celebrated sports models.

The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 with the white "Swiss-only" dial, often referred to as the "Polar," is a highly sought-after model among collectors. Produced briefly between 1998 and 1999, these watches feature a dial marked solely with "SWISS" at the 6 o'clock position, indicating the use of Luminova luminescence. This short production run makes them particularly rare and desirable.

Key Features:

• Case Size: 40mm stainless steel Oyster case

• Dial: White "Swiss-only" dial with black hour markers and hands

• Bezel: Fixed 24-hour stainless steel bezel

• Movement: Automatic Caliber 3185

• Bracelet: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

• Water Resistance: 100 meters

• Crystal: Sapphire with Cyclops lens over the date

Blue dials are seen as sophisticated yet bold, offering a perfect balance of classic and modern. Tudor’s blue dials are striking—deep, rich, and dynamic under different lighting.Because of its rarity, the Day-Date models hold their value exceptionally well.