Collector Guide

When it comes to timeless design, few watches hold the prestige and recognition of the Rolex Datejust. Among its many celebrated references, the Rolex 1601 stands out as a true classic—an enduring symbol of sophistication, craftsmanship, and vintage charm.

The Heritage of the Rolex 1601

Introduced in the late 1950s and produced throughout the 1960s and 1970s, the 1601 represents the golden era of Rolex design. It captures the essence of the Datejust—practical elegance combined with Rolex’s legendary reliability.

With its 36mm case, versatile styling, and iconic fluted bezel, the 1601 became the blueprint for the modern Rolex dress watch. It was equally at home in the boardroom as it was at a dinner party, cementing its status as the everyday luxury watch.

Design Details That Define an Era

• Case & Bezel: A 36mm Oyster case paired with a gold fluted bezel (available in yellow or white gold).

• Dial: Stunning variety, from understated silver to rich champagne tones, often featuring the beloved “pie-pan” dial with its elegant angled edges.

• Crystal: Acrylic with the famous Cyclops lens magnifying the date—a Rolex hallmark.

• Bracelet: Commonly seen with the Jubilee bracelet, which enhances its dressy appeal, though Oyster bracelets were also available.

The 1601 is powered by the Rolex Caliber 1565 or 1575 automatic movement, both known for durability and precision. While it lacks the modern quickset feature, enthusiasts appreciate the tactile connection of setting the date the vintage way.

Why Collectors Love the 1601

The Rolex 1601 isn’t just a watch—it’s a statement of history. Collectors are drawn to its:

• Vintage charm: The warm patina of aged tritium lume gives each piece unique character.

• Enduring value: Vintage Datejusts remain one of the most accessible entry points into Rolex collecting.

• Versatility: Whether paired with a suit or casual attire, the 1601 adapts effortlessly.

London is home to the world’s most prestigious watch retailers, making it the ultimate destination for luxury timepieces. From Bond Street flagships to iconic department stores like Harrods, the city offers unrivalled access to rare collections, exclusive editions, and the expertise of master horologists. With guaranteed authenticity, impeccable aftercare, and the prestige of purchasing in one of the world’s fashion and luxury capitals, buying a watch in London is more than a transaction—it’s an experience.

Known for its heritage, craftsmanship, and luxury culture, London has firmly established itself as a global hub for horology.

A Legacy of Craftsmanship and Heritage

London has a rich horological history dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, when English watchmakers like Thomas Tompion, George Graham, and John Harrison revolutionised timekeeping. Their innovations in precision and design laid the foundation for modern watchmaking. Walking through London today, that legacy is still palpable—engraved in its museums, auction houses, and luxury boutiques.

Home to the World’s Most Prestigious Retailers

Bond Street, Mayfair, and Knightsbridge are more than shopping destinations; they are temples of horology. From Watches of Switzerland to Harrods and Bucherer, London hosts flagship boutiques of the world’s most coveted brands—Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and beyond. These retailers not only offer the latest collections but also rare and exclusive editions that often aren’t available anywhere else.

A Global Hub for Collectors

London is a magnet for watch enthusiasts and collectors. International auctions at Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Bonhams frequently feature record-breaking sales of vintage and rare timepieces. This makes London not just a marketplace, but a meeting point for the global community of horology connoisseurs.

Authenticity, Expertise, and Trust

One of the reasons buyers choose London for luxury watches is the assurance of authenticity. Official retailers and auction houses in the city are renowned for their transparency, provenance checks, and expertise. This trust enhances both the experience of buying and the long-term value of a timepiece.

The "Reference 76213" is fondly nicknamed the “Vice President”, owing to its striking resemblance to the Rolex Day-Date and its elevated aesthetic.

The Rolex Day-Date, with its fluted gold bezel, full day display at 12 o’clock, and date at 3 o’clock, has long been a symbol of power and prestige—famously worn by U.S. presidents, CEOs, and global dignitaries. It's earned the name "The President" both for its bracelet and its wearer base.

Tudor, Rolex’s sibling brand, offers the 76213 as a more accessible, understated take on this concept. While it lacks the presidential bracelet, the design cues are unmistakably regal:

• Fluted yellow gold bezel

• 36mm Oyster-style case

• Day and date complications

• Two-tone steel and gold construction

• Roman numeral or champagne dials — classic and elegant

It’s not just a budget version—it’s a refined alternative with its own identity, powered by the reliable ETA 2834‑2 movement and dressed in Tudor’s classic Prince styling.

A Heritage of Functionality

Tudor has been crafting reliable dive watches since the 1950s, supplying pieces to navies and professionals around the world. The Pelagos is the modern expression of that legacy. Where the Black Bay line leans vintage, the Pelagos goes full-on utilitarian. It’s not about nostalgia—it’s about purpose.

Launched in its current form as reference 25600TB (blue dial) and 25600TN (black dial), the Pelagos is built to take a beating while performing flawlessly, from deep sea missions to everyday urban wear.

Case & Build: Titanium Toughness

The 42 mm case is made from grade 2 titanium, offering exceptional strength and corrosion resistance while remaining lighter than traditional steel. With its matte finish, the Pelagos avoids unwanted shine—an intentional design for professionals who need stealth and function underwater.

The ceramic bezel insert, also matte, provides a precise 60-minute countdown with full lume for visibility in the depths. It’s bidirectional and rock-solid in use.

And for true saturation diving? The helium escape valve ensures the Pelagos can handle pressure beyond recreational limits—rated to 500 meters (1,640 ft) of water resistance.

Dial & Legibility

One look at the Pelagos dial and you know it means business. Square hour markers, bold snowflake hands, and crisp white lume against the matte blue or black backdrop offer outstanding legibility, even in the darkest waters. A date window at 3 o’clock adds everyday practicality.

Even the luminous material is tuned for function—bright, long-lasting, and easy to read at a glance.

The Movement: MT5612

Tudor’s decision to develop its in-house caliber MT5612 marked a turning point. This automatic movement delivers:

• COSC certification for accuracy

• 70-hour power reserve (a true “weekend-proof” movement)

• Rugged build quality with a free-sprung balance and silicon hairspring

This is not just a branding move—it’s a technical upgrade that solidifies the Pelagos as a serious tool watch.

Bracelet & Comfort

The titanium bracelet is one of the most impressive in the game. Not only is it lightweight and strong, but Tudor also equipped it with a patented spring-loaded self-adjusting clasp. This allows the bracelet to expand and contract with wrist swelling or wetsuit thickness—automatically. It's one of the most functional dive clasps ever made.

Prefer something more flexible? Tudor includes a rubber strap with an extension system in the box, ready for action.

Pelagos FXD: A Tactical Twist

For those who want military flair, Tudor introduced the Pelagos FXD, developed with input from the French Navy (Marine Nationale). It features fixed strap bars, a slimmer profile, and a unidirectional bezel designed for countdown missions—not just elapsed time.

The Rolex “Anniversary Dial” in reference to Rolex’s 40th Anniversary of the Datejust, when this style began to appear more frequently. The nickname “Computer Dial” arose in collector circles, likening the grid-like repeat pattern to vintage digital circuitry or typography. Also occasionally referred to as the “Jubilee Dial”, though that term is more ambiguous and can refer to both the bracelet and certain dial styles.

These dials were more frequently ordered by or supplied to Rolex ADs in Asia, particularly in Hong Kong, Singapore, and Japan from the 1990s and early 2000s. Popular with collectors in those regions due to the dial’s unique, ornate styling and prestige.