Collector Guide

A Heritage of Functionality

Tudor has been crafting reliable dive watches since the 1950s, supplying pieces to navies and professionals around the world. The Pelagos is the modern expression of that legacy. Where the Black Bay line leans vintage, the Pelagos goes full-on utilitarian. It’s not about nostalgia—it’s about purpose.

Launched in its current form as reference 25600TB (blue dial) and 25600TN (black dial), the Pelagos is built to take a beating while performing flawlessly, from deep sea missions to everyday urban wear.

Case & Build: Titanium Toughness

The 42 mm case is made from grade 2 titanium, offering exceptional strength and corrosion resistance while remaining lighter than traditional steel. With its matte finish, the Pelagos avoids unwanted shine—an intentional design for professionals who need stealth and function underwater.

The ceramic bezel insert, also matte, provides a precise 60-minute countdown with full lume for visibility in the depths. It’s bidirectional and rock-solid in use.

And for true saturation diving? The helium escape valve ensures the Pelagos can handle pressure beyond recreational limits—rated to 500 meters (1,640 ft) of water resistance.

Dial & Legibility

One look at the Pelagos dial and you know it means business. Square hour markers, bold snowflake hands, and crisp white lume against the matte blue or black backdrop offer outstanding legibility, even in the darkest waters. A date window at 3 o’clock adds everyday practicality.

Even the luminous material is tuned for function—bright, long-lasting, and easy to read at a glance.

The Movement: MT5612

Tudor’s decision to develop its in-house caliber MT5612 marked a turning point. This automatic movement delivers:

• COSC certification for accuracy

• 70-hour power reserve (a true “weekend-proof” movement)

• Rugged build quality with a free-sprung balance and silicon hairspring

This is not just a branding move—it’s a technical upgrade that solidifies the Pelagos as a serious tool watch.

Bracelet & Comfort

The titanium bracelet is one of the most impressive in the game. Not only is it lightweight and strong, but Tudor also equipped it with a patented spring-loaded self-adjusting clasp. This allows the bracelet to expand and contract with wrist swelling or wetsuit thickness—automatically. It's one of the most functional dive clasps ever made.

Prefer something more flexible? Tudor includes a rubber strap with an extension system in the box, ready for action.

Pelagos FXD: A Tactical Twist

For those who want military flair, Tudor introduced the Pelagos FXD, developed with input from the French Navy (Marine Nationale). It features fixed strap bars, a slimmer profile, and a unidirectional bezel designed for countdown missions—not just elapsed time.

The Rolex “Anniversary Dial” in reference to Rolex’s 40th Anniversary of the Datejust, when this style began to appear more frequently. The nickname “Computer Dial” arose in collector circles, likening the grid-like repeat pattern to vintage digital circuitry or typography. Also occasionally referred to as the “Jubilee Dial”, though that term is more ambiguous and can refer to both the bracelet and certain dial styles.

These dials were more frequently ordered by or supplied to Rolex ADs in Asia, particularly in Hong Kong, Singapore, and Japan from the 1990s and early 2000s. Popular with collectors in those regions due to the dial’s unique, ornate styling and prestige.

A "MOP dial watch" refers to a timepiece featuring a dial made from Mother of Pearl (MOP), the iridescent inner layer of mollusk shells, particularly those from the Pinctada family of pearl oysters. This natural material is prized for its shimmering, multicolored appearance, which gives each watch a unique and luxurious aesthetic.

Mother of Pearl,is a delicate and brittle material that requires skilled craftsmanship to shape and incorporate into watch dials. The process involves sourcing suitable shells, pounding them into thin sheets (approximately 0.2mm to 0.5mm thick), cutting them into the desired dial shapes, and then finishing them with engraving, patterning, painting, varnishing, or lacquering. This meticulous process can take between four to six weeks to complete.

The "salmon" dial is not just a color—it's an emotion for many watch enthusiasts. Sitting somewhere between rose gold and copper, this unique tone has long been associated with rare vintage chronographs and exclusive limited editions from horological heavyweights. Tudor’s take on the salmon dial doesn’t disappoint. It delivers a warm, understated elegance that catches light beautifully and complements a wide range of wrist tones.

In the case of the Tudor Royal and Tudor Prince Date-Day, which feature the salmon dial, the tone adds a surprising level of sophistication to what might otherwise be considered entry-level luxury watches. The color brings a vintage flair without veering into gimmickry—a testament to Tudor’s design restraint.

When it comes to luxury sports watches that blend timeless design with rugged performance, the Tudor Hydronaut reference 89193 stands out as a true gem. At 40mm, this two-tone diver captures the spirit of early 2000s Tudor craftsmanship—offering collectors and enthusiasts a refined alternative to mainstream dive watches. Now available at Mayfair Watch, this distinctive model brings together bold aesthetics, practical utility, and heritage appeal.

A Dive Watch with Distinction

The Tudor Hydronaut 89193 was introduced as part of Tudor’s innovative Hydronaut series, designed for both underwater exploration and everyday elegance. Unlike its more commonly known sibling—the Submariner—this model showcases a unique design language with sharp case lines, a prominent gold bezel, and a luminous dial designed for readability in all conditions.

Key features of the Hydronaut 89193 include:

• 40mm Stainless Steel Case with 18k yellow gold bezel insert

• Rotating Diver’s Bezel with minute markers

• Champagne or Black Dial Options with luminous hour markers

• Automatic ETA 2824 Movement – reliable and serviceable

• Screw-Down Crown and Caseback for 200m water resistance

• Sapphire Crystal for scratch resistance

• Two-Tone Bracelet in stainless steel and 18k gold

The Tiger Woods Era

Collectors often associate this watch with Tudor’s partnership with golf legend Tiger Woods, who endorsed the brand during the Hydronaut's heyday. Some dials are marked "Tiger", increasing their desirability and collectability. Even without the Tiger branding, the 89193 remains an iconic reference from a golden period of Tudor innovation.