Collector Guide

• Value proposition: Compared to some Rolex Day-Date models, the Tudor offers a similar look and feel (especially in the bi-metal version) at a more attainable price. For someone wanting day-and-date in two-tone, it’s often a serious contender. 

• Rarity / availability: While not ultra-rare, certain dial variations (linen/mosaic, with or without Roman numerals) are less common, making specific variants more collectible. Condition, box & papers, and originality (especially of bracelet, dial, bezel) all matter. 

• Heritage / brand prestige: Tudor’s link to Rolex (both technical and aesthetic lineage) adds prestige. Also, Tudor is strong in the vintage / pre-owned watch community, which supports resale and desirability.

• Wearability: It’s not too precious; many owners report the watch works well as a daily driver. It holds up, still looks smart decades after release. This longevity is part of its charm. (From owner forums & listing descriptions)

Tudor Reference 90630 – Overview

• The Tudor Ref. 90630, produced around 1981, houses an automatic ETA 2784 movement. It is a vintage Prince Oyster (sometimes “Oysterdate”) model with a 34mm stainless steel case 

• The case back typically bears the inscription "ORIGINAL OYSTER CASE BY ROLEX GENEVA", highlighting Tudor's Rolex heritage

Engine-Turned Bezel — Was It Used on Ref. 90630?

• While the Ref. 90630 itself isn't widely noted for an engine-turned bezel, Tudor did release the Ref. 9061/0 around the late 1970s, which is explicitly described as featuring an engine-turned bezel and often a striking sunburst dial mjwatches.co.uk.

• A 2019 Reddit listing for a Ref. 9061/0 also confirms its unique styling:

  “...this ref (ref# 9061/0) has the somewhat unique "Engine Turned" bezel.” Reddit

• Therefore, while both references—90630 and 9061/0—are of similar vintage generation and aesthetics, only 9061/0 is definitively associated with the engine-turned bezel design.

engine-turned bezel is a vintage Rolex design hallmark — subtle, sporty, discontinued, and collectible today.

What is an Engine-Turned Bezel?

• A decorative bezel style featuring alternating polished and textured (grooved) surfaces.

• It creates a subtle pattern of light play, different from smooth polished or fluted bezels.

• Less flashy than fluted gold bezels, but more detailed than smooth ones.

• Typically made in stainless steel, so often found on entry-level Rolex models.

🔹 Rolex Models with Engine-Turned Bezels

1. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date / Datejust (34–36mm)

   • Engine-turned bezels were available as a sportier alternative to the smooth or fluted styles.

   • Common in Refs. 1500, 1501, 1603, etc. (1960s–1980s).

2. Rolex Air-King (34mm)

   • Some references (like Ref. 14010) used an engine-turned bezel, adding a touch of character to this understated model.

3. Rolex Oyster Precision

   • Vintage manual-wind pieces (Refs. 6426, 6694, etc.) could be found with engine-turned bezels.

The Tudor 74000 elegantly bridges Tudor and Rolex heritage—Rolex-signed crown, caseback, and sometimes bracelet, combined with Tudor bracelet/complements and movement. The myriad of variants across years (1970s–1990s) adds to both its charm and collectible appeal.

Real-World Listings & Variants

Examples from reputable sellers

• A rare blue-dialed 1977 model features a Rolex caseback and crown, paired with a Tudor bracelet—combining both brands’ components seamlessly.
  The Wrist Watcher

• A 1997 full-set model includes Rolex-made back case and crown with a Tudor bracelet.
  The Wrist Watcher

• A 1984 piece sports an 18k white gold bezel plus Rolex-signed components throughout.
  The Wrist Watcher

• Another 1978 example includes box and papers, with a Rolex-marked back case and crown alongside a Tudor-signed bracelet.
  The Wrist Watcher

Watch history & technical details
The 74000 emerged during a transition era when Tudor was moving away from using Rolex-branded components in later models. Early 74000s typically retain the Rolex crown, case, and sometimes bracelet, while maintaining a Tudor movement (e.g., ETA 2824-2).

When it comes to timeless design, few watches hold the prestige and recognition of the Rolex Datejust. Among its many celebrated references, the Rolex 1601 stands out as a true classic—an enduring symbol of sophistication, craftsmanship, and vintage charm.

The Heritage of the Rolex 1601

Introduced in the late 1950s and produced throughout the 1960s and 1970s, the 1601 represents the golden era of Rolex design. It captures the essence of the Datejust—practical elegance combined with Rolex’s legendary reliability.

With its 36mm case, versatile styling, and iconic fluted bezel, the 1601 became the blueprint for the modern Rolex dress watch. It was equally at home in the boardroom as it was at a dinner party, cementing its status as the everyday luxury watch.

Design Details That Define an Era

• Case & Bezel: A 36mm Oyster case paired with a gold fluted bezel (available in yellow or white gold).

• Dial: Stunning variety, from understated silver to rich champagne tones, often featuring the beloved “pie-pan” dial with its elegant angled edges.

• Crystal: Acrylic with the famous Cyclops lens magnifying the date—a Rolex hallmark.

• Bracelet: Commonly seen with the Jubilee bracelet, which enhances its dressy appeal, though Oyster bracelets were also available.

The 1601 is powered by the Rolex Caliber 1565 or 1575 automatic movement, both known for durability and precision. While it lacks the modern quickset feature, enthusiasts appreciate the tactile connection of setting the date the vintage way.

Why Collectors Love the 1601

The Rolex 1601 isn’t just a watch—it’s a statement of history. Collectors are drawn to its:

• Vintage charm: The warm patina of aged tritium lume gives each piece unique character.

• Enduring value: Vintage Datejusts remain one of the most accessible entry points into Rolex collecting.

• Versatility: Whether paired with a suit or casual attire, the 1601 adapts effortlessly.

London is home to the world’s most prestigious watch retailers, making it the ultimate destination for luxury timepieces. From Bond Street flagships to iconic department stores like Harrods, the city offers unrivalled access to rare collections, exclusive editions, and the expertise of master horologists. With guaranteed authenticity, impeccable aftercare, and the prestige of purchasing in one of the world’s fashion and luxury capitals, buying a watch in London is more than a transaction—it’s an experience.

Known for its heritage, craftsmanship, and luxury culture, London has firmly established itself as a global hub for horology.

A Legacy of Craftsmanship and Heritage

London has a rich horological history dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, when English watchmakers like Thomas Tompion, George Graham, and John Harrison revolutionised timekeeping. Their innovations in precision and design laid the foundation for modern watchmaking. Walking through London today, that legacy is still palpable—engraved in its museums, auction houses, and luxury boutiques.

Home to the World’s Most Prestigious Retailers

Bond Street, Mayfair, and Knightsbridge are more than shopping destinations; they are temples of horology. From Watches of Switzerland to Harrods and Bucherer, London hosts flagship boutiques of the world’s most coveted brands—Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and beyond. These retailers not only offer the latest collections but also rare and exclusive editions that often aren’t available anywhere else.

A Global Hub for Collectors

London is a magnet for watch enthusiasts and collectors. International auctions at Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Bonhams frequently feature record-breaking sales of vintage and rare timepieces. This makes London not just a marketplace, but a meeting point for the global community of horology connoisseurs.

Authenticity, Expertise, and Trust

One of the reasons buyers choose London for luxury watches is the assurance of authenticity. Official retailers and auction houses in the city are renowned for their transparency, provenance checks, and expertise. This trust enhances both the experience of buying and the long-term value of a timepiece.