Few timepieces embody the seamless blend of high jewelry and horology as elegantly as Piaget’s yellow gold and diamond-set bracelet watches from the late 20th century. Among these, the circa 1980 model featuring an onyx dial stands out as a statement of refined taste, luxury, and the house’s daring aesthetic.
The Legacy of Piaget in the 1980s
The 1980s marked a period when Piaget was celebrated not only as a watchmaker but as a jeweler of international renown. Famous for its ultra-thin movements, Piaget also redefined what a watch could be by crafting pieces that functioned as both precision instruments and wearable works of art. Gold, precious stones, and ornamental hardstone dials became hallmarks of the brand’s creations during this era.
Design & Craftsmanship
This Piaget watch is crafted in 18k yellow gold, with an integrated bracelet that flows seamlessly into the case. The bracelet itself is not simply a functional element but an intricate piece of goldsmithing, designed with a fluid, almost fabric-like flexibility that drapes elegantly on the wrist.
The bezel is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, carefully chosen and matched to ensure a harmonious sparkle. Piaget’s gem-setters employed meticulous craftsmanship, ensuring that each stone enhanced the watch’s symmetry and radiance.
At the heart of its aesthetic lies the dial—crafted from black onyx. Known for its deep, mirror-like polish, onyx provides a dramatic contrast against the shimmer of diamonds and the warmth of yellow gold. Minimalist in its design, the dial often bears only Piaget’s discreet signature, letting the materials speak for themselves.
Movement
Inside, many of these watches housed ultra-thin quartz movements, which were revolutionary at the time for their reliability and slim profile. This allowed Piaget to emphasize elegance without sacrificing precision. In some variants, mechanical movements were also used, continuing the maison’s legacy of technical excellence.
Style & Influence
This watch epitomizes the glamour of the 1980s—a period of bold luxury, when yellow gold reigned supreme, and jewelry watches became status symbols of international jet-setters. Celebrities, royals, and tastemakers often wore Piaget’s creations as both timekeepers and high-fashion accessories.
Today, these pieces are admired not only for their beauty but also as collectible artifacts of design history. They capture a moment when watches transcended functionality and entered the realm of pure artistry.
Collectability & Legacy
A Piaget yellow gold and diamond-set bracelet watch with an onyx dial from circa 1980 remains highly desirable among collectors. Its value lies in its craftsmanship, timeless materials, and the unmistakable aesthetic of its era. As vintage jewelry watches continue to gain recognition in the collector’s market, such models are increasingly seen as investment-worthy pieces.
What Makes Piaget Stand Out
Ultra-Thin Movements
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One of Piaget’s signature strengths has been in creating movements of exceptionally slim profile. For example, the Calibre 9P (manual wind) introduced in 1957 was only about 2mm thick, a remarkable technical achievement for its time. piaget.com+1
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Following that, in 1960, Piaget developed the 12P, an automatic movement using a micro-rotor, which further reinforced its reputation in thin automatic watches. piaget.com+1
High Jewelry (“Haute Joaillerie”) and Artistic Design
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Piaget didn’t only make watches; it also deeply invested in jewellery designs. In 1959, the Salon Piaget in Geneva was opened, signalling the maison's serious commitment to integrating high jewellery and watches under one roof. piaget.com+1
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From the 1960s onwards, Piaget became known for ornamental-stone dials—onyx, lapis lazuli, malachite, etc.—and elaborate gold bracelets or gem-sets. Its designs weren’t just functional; they were aesthetic statements. Time and Watches | The watch blog+1
Style & Image
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Piaget has managed to build a reputation not just for technical prowess, but for glamour, elegance, and bold artistry. It has been worn by style icons, royalty, celebrities, and those who appreciate jewellery as much as they do watchmaking. Time and Watches | The watch blog+2piaget.com+2
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The phrase “extravagance” isn’t far from associations with Piaget. In the 1970s especially, gold, textured bracelets, gem-set timepieces, ornamental dials, flamboyant design were all part of the Piaget DNA. Financial Times+2piaget.com+2
Ownership & Structure
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Piaget is Swiss, with roots in La Côte-aux-Fées. Over time its operations have expanded; its production of cases, bracelets, gem setting, etc., are all handled in its manufacture(s). Wikipedia+2piaget.com+2
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Since 1988, Piaget has been part of the Richemont luxury group. Wikipedia+1
Recent Moves & Where Piaget Is Now
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Piaget celebrates heritage: recent collections revisit or draw inspiration from its “golden age” (1960-70s, 1970s design, glamour) and revivals of iconic lines like the Polo 79. GQ+2Vogue Business+2
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It places strong emphasis on high jewellery and the crossover between jewellery and horology — watches that are also precious objets d’art. aboutwatches.pl+2Vogue Business+2
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Innovation continues: both in ultra-thin mechanics (latest calibres, modern technical refinement) and in design / materials. aboutwatches.pl+2Sothebys.com+2
Why Vintage Piaget Pieces (Like the Onyx Bracelet Watch) Are Highly Regarded
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Because Piaget combined fine materials (solid gold, precious / semi-precious stones, high quality gems) with exceptional workmanship — in gem-setting, finishing, movement quality.
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Their designs are distinctive. Ornamental stone dials (onyx, etc.) aren’t common across many brands; when done well in a piece that has provenance and is in good condition, they become collector favourites.
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The era (1970s-80s) has recently been seeing renewed interest: retro gold, jewellery watches, bold statements are very “in vogue” in collecting circles.
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Rarity & condition matter: many of these watches were made in limited numbers, many have not survived in excellent condition (stone dials are fragile, gold can be over-polished, stones/bracelets can be damaged or replaced).
Some Things to Look Out For
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Authenticity: solid precious metal use (e.g. 18k gold), hallmarks, correct signatures, original movement, correct gemstone settings.
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Condition: on stone dials, look for cracks, chips, refacing; for bracelets, wear and stretch; for gold pieces, has there been over-polishing that wiped down hallmarks.
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Documentation / provenance: original box/papers help; service records too.
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Market demand: matching trends matter (what buyers want), recent auction results for comparable pieces act as benchmarks.
