Collector Guide

When the Rolex Yacht-Master 40mm Ref. 16622 was introduced in 1999, it represented a new direction for Rolex. Rather than creating another professional tool watch, Rolex refined the concept of luxury sports watches by combining rugged Oystersteel with the elegance of solid platinum. The result was the first-ever Rolesium timepiece—a watch that remains one of the most distinctive and understated luxury sports models in Rolex history.

The Yacht-Master collection first debuted in 1992 with the all-yellow-gold Reference 16628. Unlike the Submariner, which was engineered as a professional diving instrument, the Yacht-Master was designed to celebrate the sophisticated lifestyle associated with sailing and yachting. It retained the robust Oyster case and rotating bezel but placed greater emphasis on precious metals, comfort, and refined aesthetics rather than extreme underwater performance.

At the 1999 Basel Watch Fair, Rolex unveiled the Yacht-Master Ref. 16622. It became the first Rolex to feature the company's proprietary Rolesium construction—a combination of Oystersteel with a solid 950 platinum bezel and matching platinum dial.

This material combination created an entirely different personality compared to other Rolex sports watches. Instead of bold colours or polished ceramic, the 16622 embraced a monochromatic appearance that changed dramatically under different lighting conditions. The sandblasted platinum bezel with raised polished numerals became one of the model's defining characteristics and remains unique within the Rolex catalogue.

The Tudor Princess Date Silver Sunburst Dial "Lady-Sub" is one of the most charming and versatile vintage ladies' watches ever produced by Tudor. Combining the robust design language of the iconic Submariner with refined proportions and timeless elegance, the Lady-Sub has become a favourite among collectors who appreciate understated luxury and Rolex-era craftsmanship.

Often overshadowed by its larger counterparts, the Tudor Princess Date offers exceptional value, classic styling, and outstanding everyday wearability. Its silver sunburst dial adds a sophisticated touch, making it equally suitable for casual and formal occasions.

The Birth of the Tudor Princess Collection

The Tudor Princess line was introduced to provide ladies with the same durability, precision, and Oyster-case construction that had made Tudor's men's watches so successful. Inspired by the Oyster Prince collection, the Princess models were designed for women seeking a dependable Swiss timepiece without compromising on elegance.

During the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s, Tudor produced a variety of Princess Date models in stainless steel, two-tone, and solid gold, offering different dial colours and bracelet options while maintaining the brand's reputation for reliability.

Why Is It Called the "Lady-Sub"?

Collectors affectionately refer to certain Tudor Princess Date references as the "Lady-Sub" because of their resemblance to the classic Tudor and Rolex Submariner.

The similarities include:

• Oyster-style stainless-steel case
• Screw-down crown for enhanced water resistance
• Strong, sporty case profile
• Oyster bracelet
• Bold bezel design on selected references
• Rugged everyday construction

Although the Princess Date is not a professional dive watch, its robust architecture earned it the "Lady-Sub" nickname among enthusiasts.

The Beauty of the Silver Sunburst Dial

One of the defining features of this model is its elegant silver sunburst dial.

Unlike a flat silver finish, the finely brushed surface reflects light from every angle, creating a subtle shimmering effect that changes throughout the day. Depending on the lighting, the dial can appear bright silver, soft champagne, or cool metallic grey, adding depth and sophistication to the watch.

The dial is complemented by:

• Applied baton hour markers
• Luminous hands for enhanced legibility
• Date display at 3 o'clock
• Clean, balanced layout
• Tudor shield or rose logo, depending on the production year

This minimalist design ensures excellent readability while maintaining a refined vintage aesthetic.

Rolex-Era Tudor Quality

Many vintage Tudor Princess Date watches were produced during the period when Tudor shared manufacturing expertise and components with Rolex.

Collectors appreciate these models for their:

• Oyster case construction
• Screw-down winding crown
• High-quality stainless-steel bracelet
• Robust Swiss automatic movement
• Excellent long-term durability

Powered by reliable ETA-based automatic calibres, the Princess Date offers dependable timekeeping and straightforward servicing, making it an ideal choice for regular wear.

Perfectly Proportioned for Everyday Wear

One of the reasons the Tudor Princess Date remains so popular is its versatile size.

Typical specifications include:

• Stainless-steel Oyster case
• Silver sunburst dial
• Automatic Swiss movement
• Sapphire or acrylic crystal depending on the reference
• Date display
• Oyster bracelet
• Compact ladies' case designed for comfortable daily wear

Its balanced proportions allow it to pair effortlessly with both business attire and weekend casual outfits.

A Rising Vintage Collectible

Interest in vintage Tudor watches has grown significantly in recent years, and the Princess Date has benefited from this renewed appreciation.

Collectors are drawn to the Lady-Sub because it offers:

• Authentic Tudor heritage
• Rolex-era craftsmanship
• Elegant vintage styling
• Reliable Swiss engineering
• Excellent value compared with comparable Rolex ladies' models
• Increasing rarity in well-preserved condition

Original examples featuring untouched silver sunburst dials, matching bracelets, and complete accessories are becoming increasingly difficult to find.

Why Buy the Tudor Princess Date Silver Sunburst Dial?

For anyone seeking a vintage ladies' watch that blends everyday practicality with timeless elegance, the Tudor Princess Date Silver Sunburst Dial is an outstanding choice.

Its combination of refined aesthetics, durable Oyster construction, and reliable Swiss mechanics makes it far more than a beautiful dress watch. It is a versatile companion that reflects Tudor's long-standing commitment to quality and functionality.

Whether you are beginning a vintage watch collection or searching for a distinctive everyday timepiece, the Tudor Princess Date "Lady-Sub" offers enduring style backed by one of Switzerland's most respected watchmakers.

Discover Vintage Tudor at Mayfair Watch

At Mayfair Watch, we carefully curate exceptional vintage Tudor timepieces, including rare Princess Date models that showcase the brand's rich heritage and enduring craftsmanship. Every watch is thoroughly inspected for authenticity and condition, ensuring collectors can buy with complete confidence.

If you are looking for a classic ladies' watch with timeless appeal and outstanding value, the Tudor Princess Date Silver Sunburst Dial "Lady-Sub" deserves a place at the top of your list.

The Tudor Ranger Blue Dial is one of the most intriguing and least documented watches in Tudor's catalogue. While never officially marketed as a separate Ranger model, this rare blue-dial variation is now regarded by collectors as one of the hidden gems of Tudor's neo-vintage era. Produced in limited numbers during the mid-to-late 1990s, it combined the classic Ranger aesthetic with a striking blue dial that set it apart from the traditional black-dial field watches. The Origins of the Ranger The Ranger name dates back to 1929, when Hans Wilsdorf registered the "Ranger" trademark, three years after creating the Tudor brand. However, the Ranger did not become a dedicated watch collection until the 1960s. Its design was heavily influenced by Tudor's association with the British North Greenland Expedition of 1952–1954, whose members wore Tudor Oyster Prince watches in extreme Arctic conditions. Although those expedition watches did not carry the Ranger name, they inspired Tudor's rugged field-watch philosophy. The first recognisable Ranger models introduced the now-famous design language: Large Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 Highly legible matte dial Distinctive arrow-shaped hour hand Robust Oyster case built for adventure These elements became defining characteristics of the Ranger collection throughout the 1960s and 1970s.

The Submariner lineage began in 1953 and became one of the most influential dive watch families ever created. The Ref. 14060 arrived around 1989–1990, replacing the long-running 5513 and bringing significant upgrades while preserving the minimalist no-date aesthetic.

The 14060 introduced:

• Sapphire crystal instead of acrylic
• 300m water resistance
• Triplock screw-down crown
• Caliber 3000 automatic movement
• Classic 40mm stainless steel case
• Clean two-line dial layout

The Beauty of No Date

Without a date aperture or Cyclops magnifier, the dial remains perfectly balanced. The result is symmetry that many enthusiasts consider the purest expression of the Submariner design.

The watch features only two lines of text above six o’clock:

Vintage Feel, Everyday Reliability

One reason the Ref. 14060 continues to attract enthusiasts is wearability.

Unlike modern Submariners with broader lugs and heavier cases, the 14060 retains slimmer proportions that sit comfortably on nearly any wrist. Owners often describe it as feeling closer to vintage Rolex references while maintaining contemporary durability.

Its automatic Caliber 3000 movement is known for robustness and straightforward servicing, adding to the model’s reputation as a practical long-term ownership piece.

The “Panda dial” configuration—white dial with contrasting black subdials—is where this reference truly shines. It’s a design language rooted in vintage racing chronographs, instantly legible and effortlessly stylish.

On the 79260, the panda layout is executed with subtle sophistication:

• Crisp white or porcelain dial base
• Bold black sub-registers (12, 6, and 9 o’clock)
• A date window at 3 o’clock
• Clean tachymeter bezel framing the dial

Inside the 79260 beats the robust ETA 7750 automatic chronograph movement—a workhorse calibre known for its durability and ease of servicing.

While it may not carry in-house prestige, it offers something arguably more important for a vintage daily wearer: reliability. This makes the 79260 not just a collector’s piece, but a watch you can actually wear without hesitation.