Few names in watchmaking carry as much weight, heritage, and innovation as Breguet. Since its founding in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the Maison has consistently been at the frontier of horological art and science — a place where craftsmanship meets ingenious mechanics, and where aesthetics are inseparable from precision.

Origins & Early History

• 1775: Abraham-Louis Breguet, born in Neuchâtel to Huguenot parents, opened his first workshop in Paris, at 51 Quai de l’Horloge. He had trained under Ferdinand Berthoud and Jean-Antoine Lépine — which grounded him in both technical and theoretic aspects of timekeeping.
  
• His early work caught the attention of royalty and the aristocracy. King Louis XVI and Queen Marie-Antoinette were among his patrons. One of his most famous commissions was a watch for Marie-Antoinette (No. 160), commissioned in 1783 by Count Axel von Fersen. This piece, completed in 1802, was to include all the watch complications known at the time. 
  
• Breguet also started introducing innovations early on: self-winding watches (the “Perpétuelle”), the “pare-chute” shock protection, etc. His approach was always forward-looking. 
  

“Salmon” describes a range of pinky-copper / rose-gold hues on a watch dial — from pale rose to deep coppery salmon. It’s a vintage-rooted colour (popular in the 1930s–1950s) that’s seen a major resurgence in new releases and reissues.

The Allure of Tudor Salmon Dial Watches

Among the many dial colors in the watch world, few inspire as much fascination as salmon. Warm, sophisticated, and rare, salmon dials carry both vintage charm and modern desirability. Tudor, Rolex’s sibling brand, has embraced this shade across select models — making them highly sought after by collectors.

Why Salmon?

The salmon dial’s appeal lies in its balance: striking enough to stand out but subtle enough to wear daily. Historically, salmon tones were popular in the 1930s–1950s, often reserved for high-end pieces. Tudor’s use of the shade ties its watches to this heritage, offering enthusiasts a chance to own something that feels both classic and contemporary.

Modern Tudor Salmon Dials: The Royal Collection

Currently, the Tudor Royal line offers the most consistent salmon dial options. These watches combine dressy elements — Roman numeral hour markers, sunburst textures, optional diamond indices — with sporty integrated steel bracelets.

• Royal 38mm (Ref. M28500-0007): A versatile size, featuring a salmon sunburst dial with applied Roman numerals.

• Royal 41mm (Ref. M28600-0009): A larger presence, still showcasing the same warm salmon aesthetic.

• Royal 34mm and 28mm (Refs. M28400-0011, M28300-0010): Smaller case sizes, often paired with diamond markers for extra elegance.

These pieces sit in the accessible luxury tier (around £1,800–£2,500 new at retail) and offer modern reliability with a vintage-inspired dial tone.

Vintage and Rare Salmon Dials

The real treasures, however, lie in Tudor’s vintage catalog. Models such as the Tudor Oyster Ref. 7904 occasionally surface with salmon-tone waffle dials — unique, textured, and loaded with mid-century character. Even rarer are Prince Date-Day references like the 76200 featuring salmon dials. Genuine examples in New Old Stock (NOS) condition are nearly unicorns; when they appear, they command significant premiums over standard silver or black dials.

Collecting Considerations

• Authenticity: Many salmon dials are refinished. Provenance, photos under natural light, and trusted sellers are essential.

• Shade Variations: Salmon isn’t one exact color; it ranges from pink-gold to copper. Collectors often favor richer tones.

• Condition: For vintage models, consistent patina and originality matter more than “perfect” appearance.

• Premium Pricing: Expect to pay above the market baseline for the same reference in silver, white, or black.

Final Thoughts

Tudor salmon dial watches occupy a sweet spot in the market. Modern Royal

Circa 1920s–1930s Tiffany & Co. Art Deco lady’s wristwatch in platinum, set with 26 French-cut diamonds and 10 round brilliant diamonds. Rectangular platinum case (14 × 48 mm) on a traditional black cord bracelet with a white-gold filled slide clasp. Manual-wind movement; serviced and warrantied for 12 months (mechanical). A superbly preserved example of Tiffany’s Art Deco jewelry-watchmaking. 

An elegant Art Deco wristwatch by Tiffany & Co., expertly hand-crafted in platinum. The elongated rectangular case measures 14 mm × 48 mm, beautifully proportioned for evening wear. The case is set with 26 French-cut diamonds and 10 round brilliant diamonds in traditional pavé and millgrain settings, totaling a lively and period-correct sparkle. The piece is mounted on a traditional cord bracelet finished with a white-gold–filled slide clasp. The manual-wind movement is intact and comes with a 12-month mechanical warranty from the vendor. Excellent for collectors of 1920s/30s fine jewelry watches, or as a striking vintage cocktail watch. Pictures available on request; shipping insured.

Suggested price & selling strategy

• Retail/Dealer listing (e.g., specialist seller like MayfairWatch): £7,000 – £9,500 (example listing currently shows £7,575).

• Auction (specialist jewelry / watches): Estimate guidance: $1,000–$5,000 for lots with modest estimates sometimes; however premium, provenance, and original box can push results much higher — comparable Tiffany Art Deco diamond watches have sold across a very wide range (roughly $2k–$30k+) depending on maker, diamond weight/quality, and provenance. Examples of auction listings and past sales show big variance.

• Recommendation: If you want a quicker, guaranteed sale to a private buyer/dealer, list with a trusted specialist or high-end reseller and use a price around £7,500–£9,500. If you want to chase top market price (and you have provenance or the original box), consign to a specialist auction house (Bonhams, Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Toomey/Invaluable, LiveAuctioneers) with a conservative reserve.

At Mayfair Watch, we understand that few watches capture the essence of exploration and timeless design quite like the Rolex Explorer 214270. Produced between 2010 and 2021, this 39mm model has become a favourite among collectors and enthusiasts, offering a perfect balance between classic heritage and modern proportions. Whether you’re considering your first Rolex or adding to your collection, the Explorer 214270 deserves a closer look.

The History of the Rolex Explorer 214270

The Rolex Explorer was first introduced in 1953 to celebrate the brand’s association with mountaineering and high-altitude exploration. For decades, the model was produced in a 36mm case, admired for its understated elegance and durability.

In 2010, Rolex launched the Explorer 214270, increasing the case size to 39mm to suit modern tastes. This was the first time the Explorer broke from its 36mm heritage, making it a milestone reference in Rolex’s lineup.

Key Specifications of the Explorer 214270

• Case Size: 39mm Oystersteel

• Movement: Rolex Caliber 3132 with Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers

• Power Reserve: 48 hours

• Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock clasp and Easylink 5mm extension

• Water Resistance: 100 meters

• Dial: Black with 3-6-9 Arabic numerals and luminous Chromalight display (depending on MK1 vs MK2)

This combination makes the Explorer 214270 both practical and refined, suitable for everyday wear in any environment.

Mark I vs Mark II: What’s the Difference?

One of the most important distinctions within the 214270 line is between the Mark I (2010–2016) and Mark II (2016–2021) versions:

• Mark I: White gold 3-6-9 numerals without lume, shorter hands. Some collectors value this unique aesthetic, but low-light visibility was reduced.

• Mark II: Rolex updated the dial with luminous numerals and longer hands, greatly improving legibility. This version is often preferred by those seeking functionality as well as style.

When browsing pre-owned Explorer 214270 watches, knowing whether you’re looking at a MK1 or MK2 is essential.

Why Collectors Love the Rolex Explorer 214270

1. Versatility: At 39mm, it sits perfectly between vintage proportions and modern sport-watch sizing.

2. Timeless Design: The black dial with 3-6-9 numerals remains one of Rolex’s most iconic looks.

3. Rolex Reliability: Powered by the Caliber 3132, it delivers accuracy, durability, and performance.

4. Value Retention: As a discontinued model, the 214270 continues to hold strong demand in the secondary market.

Buying a Rolex Explorer 214270 at Mayfair Watch

At Mayfair Watch, we specialize in sourcing and offering authentic Rolex timepieces, including the highly sought-after Explorer 214270. Each watch is carefully inspected for quality and authenticity, so you can purchase with complete confidence.

Explore our current inventory to find the perfect Rolex Explorer 214270, whether you prefer the distinctive MK1 or the improved MK2.

The Rolex Explorer 214270 is more than just a timepiece — it’s a symbol of endurance, precision, and understated elegance. With its 39mm case, rugged movement, and iconic dial design, it bridges Rolex tradition with modern sensibility. For collectors and adventurers alike, it remains one of the most versatile Rolex sports watches ever made.